Dear readers,
If you’ve been following me for some time, you know cashmere is one of my favourite fabrics for creating a timeless, long-lasting, and high-quality wardrobe.
The emphasis on “quality” is essential here, as cashmere is a natural fibre sourced from cashmere goats, primarily from the highlands of Asia, such as Nepal and Mongolia.
With the recent boom of fast fashion retailers adding cashmere to their “premium” product ranges, it may (or may not) surprise you to learn that not all cashmere is created equal. In fact, I’ve been spotting low-quality cashmere all over the retail space, which frustrates me because there is truly nothing “premium” about loosely woven, almost transparent, and often expensive cashmere garments that lose their shape or start pilling after just a few wears.
For many of us, cashmere is a luxury fabric that we save up for and hope to cherish for years. I can only imagine the disappointment of investing in a €100+ cashmere jumper from a high-street brand like Zara or Uniqlo, only to see it fall apart after one season.
This influx of low-quality cashmere inspired me to write today’s newsletter and share some tips and tricks for spotting quality cashmere that will serve you well for many years.
How to Spot a Good Quality Cashmere?
A QUICK GUIDE
1. Feel for Softness (but Not Too Silky)
One of the first things you’ll notice about high-quality cashmere is its softness. While cashmere should feel cosy, it shouldn’t feel overly silky or slippery, as that can indicate lower-quality fibres. Premium cashmere has a plush, slightly fuzzy feel, suggesting it’s made from longer fibres that will last and feel luxurious wash after wash.
2. Do a Stretch Test
Durable cashmere holds its shape well. A quick way to test this is by gently stretching a small section of the fabric. High-quality cashmere should snap back into shape without losing structure, showing that the fibres are resilient and able to withstand wear. If the fabric stays stretched out, it may lose its shape over time and isn’t likely to be as long-lasting.
3. Watch for Pilling Potential
All cashmere will develop some pilling, especially in areas where there’s friction, like under the arms. However, high-quality cashmere should pill much less than cheaper versions. To test this, run your hand over the surface - if it feels overly fuzzy or has many loose fibres, it may pill heavily, suggesting shorter, less durable fibres.
4. Assess the Density and Weave
Hold the cashmere up to the light. High-quality cashmere should be thick and tightly woven with minimal transparency. Dense fabric retains warmth, has a rich texture, and is less prone to holes, making it a better investment for long-term use. Thin, see-through pieces might be soft initially but often wear out quickly or lose warmth.
5. Examine the Labels and Craftsmanship
Top cashmere brands take pride in craftsmanship, so check the label for details. Look for labels indicating pure cashmere, ideally “100% cashmere,” and avoid blends unless you're specifically looking for a mixed fabric. Information on where and how the cashmere is sourced, along with details about ethical production practices, is also a good sign of quality.
Where to Buy Quality Cashmere
Personally, I would skip high-street fast fashion brands altogether. While brands like Zara or Uniqlo may give the impression that their premium range is worth queuing for, in my opinion, it’s not worth the hype.
When it comes to cashmere, I am a big fan of second-hand stores, where you can often find cashmere garments made 10-15 years ago, before fast fashion brands infiltrated the cashmere market. Once you experience the density and feel of a thick, well-made cashmere, you’ll be able to spot low-quality options a mile away.
For lesser-known options, I highly recommend my favourite brand The Curated or the Parisian brand, Kujten. Their cashmere is top-class, though it does come with a price tag to match. Thankfully, second-hand platforms like Vestiaire Collective often have a great selection of their pre-loved items, so you can experience premium cashmere at a more accessible price point.
Dear readers, I hope you will find this guide helpful and it will come in handy on your next cashmere purchase journey.
Happy cashmere shopping!
Yours sincerely,
Katarina
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